Here was a nice write up I found about an xc90 - but the principals should apply:
I managed to change the washer pump from underneath the car and I didnt have to take off the front bumper so it looks like I was lucky that on my year / model, the (rear and front windshield) washer pump was not hidden and not inaccessible. Ive listed all the steps I went through to diagnose and repair. Its probably too detailed but hopefully it will help.
- Determine whether a) front windshield washer b) rear windshield washer c) headlight washers work
- if a or b work but not both: Fuse ok. Most likely to be some sort of blockage. Possibly a faulty pump but I guess very unlikely
- if a and b work but not c, either headlight washer fuse or headlight washer pump blown / not working. Also please note headlight washers do not work if water level low and only work every 4th pull of the trigger.
- if c works but not a and b, either windshield washer pump fuse or windshield washer pump not working
- if a, b and c do not work???? Unlikely that both fuses and or pumps fail at the same time. Perhaps a loose connection on the trigger you pull to activate the washers.
Diagnosis and repair for pipe blockage:
-Check washer jets on top of bonnet / rear windscreen are not frozen / blocked.....perhaps insert pin into the nozzles to unblock
-Open bonnet. Locate the washer reservoir. My washer reservoir was on the driver side of the engine. Top up if low (particularly if headlight washer not working)
-Check for disconnected pipes / blockages in all pipes (clipped in on the underside of the bonnet near the windscreen) and T's which lead up to the washer jets . You can blow / suck the pipes to check for free flow (although its not particularly pleasant for your mouth!)
Diagnosis and repair for fuses:
-Check relevant fuses (refer to owner manual).
In my 2004 SE, the headlight washer jets and the windshield (front and rear) washer jets had 2 different fuses and are operated by 2 different pumps. I think this is consistent with all the models.
I beleive this can differ on different models.....but on mine....
"Fuse box in the passenger compartment within the sound barrier on the drivers side. "Fuse no 34. Washer Pump 15amp." The diagram of the fuse box only goes up to fuse no 30! I managed to find fuse no 34. Its not on the diagram in the book but if you look in the fuse box, its to the left of the main fuses and is the 15amp larger fuse and its numbered (very small) 34 just above the fuse. Use a lamp to see the fuse numbers.
"Fuse box in the engine compartment. Fuse no 15. High pressure washer headlamps."
Washer pump removal / blockage:
- If all the above are ok, its likely to be something wrong with the washer pump. Could be blockages on washer pump but a common issue seems to be a failed washer pump.
- PLEASE NOTE (as sugested by Southport Volvo) that the pump is actually a Ford part and it is less than half the price at Ford £21.24). Ford finis code / part number 1355124 / IS71-17K264-FE. My old pump was suffixed with a FD instead of FE but the new pump seems to work fine.
- Turn wheels to right
- Use a lamp / torch shined on the area (even if its bright outside)
- Get underneath the car and locate the bottom of the washer reservoir
- My washer reservoir was on the drivers side, towards the front end (ie towards the front end of the car) of the wheel arch
-My washer pump was visible at the bottom of the reservoir and towards the back (ie towards the rear end of the car) of the reservoir. It seems other models / years have the pump located at the bottom front of the reservoir (in which case you may need to follow the other instructions to remove the front bumper)
-Washer pump Photo attached athough it looks bigger in the photo. Its prob about 5/6 cm high.
NB. The end that is not visible in the pic, is a round 2*2cm opening which pushes into the reservoir
-Unclip the front end of the wheel arch from the rear end of the front bumper. Mine had one rivet that pushed out.
-Ideally, wedge something between the bumper and the wheel arch so you can get you hand in freely and if you can open further rivets to make access easier, go ahead.
-Get 2 large mixing bowls from the Mrs!! (particularly if you want to keep the washer fluid) (if the reservoir is full it fills up 2 large bowls)
-Before removing the washer pump, try to pull the connector off the top of the pump. (There are no clips but it was very tight). I did not do this but in hindsight, if it was possible to remove connector first it may have been easier).
-Also, I guess you could check whether power is getting to the connector using a multimeter (although I never tried this) and the most likely cause will be a failed washer pump.
-Place bowls under the pump
- Remove the washer pump. This should simply pull / wiggle out.
- If there are any obvious blockages, you may just be able to unblock and reconnect.
-Note down which pipe attaches to which outlet on the pump. (The white outlet linked in with the pipe which had a white insert as well so it was easy to remember.)
-If there are any obvious blockages, you may just be able to reconnect.
-Detach connector (if not done before)
Washer Pump replacement:
-To replace pump
-Connect pipes first (making sure you connect the correct pipe to the correct outlet)
-Attach electrical connection at top of pump
-Push fit pump into washer reservoir
-Refill washer reservoir BEFORE testing (and please note the headlight washers will not work when the reservoir water level is low)
-Test windscreeen washers (front and rear)
-If ok, refit pipes into clips
-Reconnect wheel arch to bumper with rivet
- If not ok, I guess come back to the forum!