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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thanks for a great forum, I am helping a coworker try to solve his problems with his Volvo. He had it sitting at a local shop for 2 years while they pretended to try to fix it and claimed the ECM was intermittant but they never replaced it.

1994 960 VIN YV1KS9506R0041126, 147,464 miles

Problem: Started the car after sitting for a few days, it will start and run fine for 8-10 minutes. Then when sitting at a light for 1-2 minutes, it will then shut down and all the dash lights come on. Turn key to off then restart the car and it will run for 10 seconds or so and will shut down again. It will continue to act like this until you park it and try again the next day.

I followed the retrieving codes procedure and got the following 3 codes: 212 Oxygen sensor, 115 ??, and 113 Fuel injectors.

Short of taking it to a local indy in the Garland / North Dallas area, what would you suggest I do next? I'm not much of a mechanic but really want to help my friend because his other car has a bad a/c compressor so he's driving around Dallas in 100 degree weather. The a/c works fine on the Volvo if it would only keep running.
I did a search on 960 and read something about a coolant temperature sensor but not sure what to do now.
Many thanks for your suggestions
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the tip, I actually got a few suggestions on Matthews site so I have a few things to check and report back to them on. Looks like it might be injector issues and grounding issues from what others have stated.
 

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If you can let us know how you solved this it would be helpful for other and future members. We are trying to build up our forum so it's much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Codes cleared and car fixed!

After receiving some ideas on another site, I did the following and don't know what exactly fixed it but it's working ok now with no codes.

Since the car had been sitting at the shop for almost 2 years I put a battery charger on the battery, it was at 70% and I got it to 100% charge after a few hours.

I removed the connectors to the fuel injectors and did continuity tests and they ranged between 17 and 18.3 ohms. Also checked power coming to the injectors and all had 12.2V at pin1. So figured the injectors were fine.
I sprayed everything with contact cleaner and reassembled.
Then I unscrewed the 2 ground lugs from the fuel injector harness that were bolted onto the motor and used a brass brush and scrubbed the motor mounting points and the bolts and used sand paper and cleaned up the lugs and then reassembled everything.
Then I switched the two gray relays that are near the engine code reader. They are the same parts and I also cleaned the connectors, sprayed them out with contact cleaner and reassembled.
Then I removed the ground lug from the battery and the screw that had a lug on it where it was attached to chassis ground. There was a bit of corrosion on the lug and on the screw so I had to sand that pretty good to get it to bare metal and used the brass brush on the screw. Thought it was interesting that the lug was screwed over a painted surface so the primary contact must be with the screw. I used some dialectric grease after I had put everything back together so it would stay clean in the future.
Then we took it out to see what the result were and noticed the gas tank was about empty. Went and filled it up with 92 octane at a gas station that was 4 miles away and the car seemed to be running fine. Drove it for another 20 minutes and the car never hesitated of faltered.
Brought it back home and let it cool while I cooked some hotdogs on the grill. After 45 minutes we went out and reset the code box and they cleared per the instructions. Started the car and the check engine light was now off! Drove it for 45 minutes under various conditions and the car runs great. My friend was amazed that we fixed it following some simple instructions from the forums. So much for the mechanic who had it for 2 years. We got it fixed in 3 hours.
 
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