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Discussion Starter #1
I used to like my power windows, until today the drivers door window won't budge.
couldn't find a dead fuse and I assume they are all on the same one. the other windows work so there is power to the switch I think.

normally if the passenger window is on it's way up and I , at the same time activate one of the closed windows to move up.. I hear the motor on the passenger side one slow. This makes sense because some current is being used by both windows at the same time.

I tried moving the drivers window up ( which is stuck up ) while the passenger window was on it's way up to see if it still slowed like it normally does and it didn't change speed.
This means the drivers door motor isn't drawing current.

I assume this means bad switch , bad motor, or broken wire in the drivers door. Is this common? should I buy a motor, then take the door all apart or is there something that commonly fails?

on the bright side, at least it didn't stick open.

Phil
 

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Do you know if you also have relays? I'm not that familiar with the 245 but thought they had relays for the power windows. You may want to check that. If no relays then you may want to go ahead and take the door apart to see if there is anything visible and also put a volt meter to the motor. If you have to buy one this link may help.
Volvo Window Regulator at 1AAuto.com
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I hadn't thought of the issue being a relay, but that would make a lot of sense, thank you. I'll need to locate my manual, but you are right it is unlikely that all the power for the motor goes through the switch, and if there is a relay perhaps I could clean the contacts up and swap it for the relay of another door, or just replace it.

Would anyone else know if I would have a relay for each door and where they are located? I don't have a great place to work on it and this info could prevent an excercise in frustration.
Thank you Admin, for your help on this.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I opened the drivers door. I think the switch seems to be operating. with the panel off I can hear a faint click that sounds like it is inside the motor housing, so I think the relay might be inside the motor.

I hid my book on myself and the motor removal looks a bit confusing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I took the two bolts out that hold the motor casing together and it came apart by unscrewing the armature, there is a worm gear on the end. so it sort of unscrews. some artful work with tin snips is required here to get room.

No relay and nothing apparently wrong in the motor. I put my meter across the brushes and had 12 V one way , nothing the other way.. ahhh the switch..should have checked that out better first..

the sound was the motor straining to move up, but it couldn't move down, no power the other way. the switch reversees the voltage to make the motor run the other way.

switch parts are in a bowl soaking in alcohol, the contacts are burnt and it is now like one of those little puzzles where you shake it and try to get all the ball bearings to land in the right spot.

Ill fix up the contacts by bending the little rocker thing and use that switch for the back rear, they are all the same and moving the switch made it work again..

just some putting back now but mystery solved, thanks for the help.

If your motor ever gets stuck, swap the wires to the switches around from one to the other as a temporary measure, and to troubleshoot it. .

the motor has brushes, they look ok @ 222 K and I always open by windows when driving so they get used a lot.

the motor is very difficult to reassemble inside the door. I got it but if you do this be gentle, as there are bushings at both ends that are of the self aligning type and they want to get out of alignment which makes it so the armature won't go into the bushing. fought for an hour till I finally realized that's why it wouldn't go back together.

apparently there are no relays. and the motor just stops by powering out when it can't move anymore, there isn't a limit switch or anything like that.

tape the window in the up position , or you will be fighting that. I did and it removed some of my window tint, par for the course..


Phil
 

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I would have looked at the wiring where the door hinges. That wire is continually flexed everytime the driver's door is opened and can slowly break down resulting in a loss of current. Pull the switch (if it's on the door) and see if it's got power.

While you've got it all apart you should lubricate the entire window mechanism inluding spraying some silicone spray in the window channels.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yea I thought about the wire flexing but it was the drivers door window and the switches did work the other windows.

It was definitely the switch. blackened contacts. I carefully took it apart and washed all the bits in alcohol. I bent one of the tabs ( the one with the blackened contact just a slight bit.) with everything clean I reassembled it. put a teeny dap of vasaline on the ball bearings, not the contacts.

It works fine now. since that switch gave me issues I swapped it with the one for the drivers rear door just in case it acts up again. took less time to fix the switch than to go shopping for a new one.

Phil
 

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Actually fixing parts is becoming a lost art.
 
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