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Hi Jon

Welcome to the forum, I'm hoping you can help me out, i've just bought a 2nd hand Volvo S80 2003 model and the central locking seems to have gremlins. front doors function fine on fob and key locking but theres no response from the back doors.
is this something i can fix myself or do i need to get a profesional on the job?

thanks :)
 

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purchased 2006 s40. warranty or not??

Hey everybody!
My name is Jon and I'm a certified Volvo tech in Pittsburgh Pa.
If anyone has a question about their Volvo, please ask!

Jon
Thanks for being such help to everyone!!!!!

Question: Should I pay $3,419 for a 42 month/42,000 miles warranty that includes engine, trans, front wheel drive, steering, front suspension, brakes, seals and gaskets, electrical, and air conditioning???

The S40 has basic maintenance through its life (oil changes, filter, fluids) but no major parts (timing belt, A/C, compressor, etc), there is nothing wrong with these larger ticket items yet, but from reading maintenance issues I am expecting to replace some of these items while I have the vehicle. Is this warranty a good deal? Looking for some seasoned advice. Will post in more appropriate threads too.

Idk if the small print is viewable but I attached the warranty details (Power Train, Silver)

Thanks in advance!!!!
 

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Hi Kris, I just joined the forum today. I am not sure if I posted my question in the right section but I have a couple of questions...
I just bought an '02 S60 2.5 T AWD Its around 70 degrees here just outside of Philly and the radiator runs for about 10 minutes after I shut down. Also, the temperature gauge is right in the middle. Everyone says not to worry that the car is doing what it should but it still concerns me. Like I said, it's not even that hot out. Last couple of cars I had, temperature gauge stayed at low and I never heard the radiator fan.

Thanks,
Mandi
 

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Great Forum

I recently bought a '96 960 and I love driving this car. First Volvo and I'm hooked. I want to drive them all! This is my daily driver with 198k. Car is solid and runs well, and I am looking to renew it and see how far she goes. I have plenty of high mileage repair/replacing to do (I have enjoyed doing maintenance so far), so I will have plenty of questions as I learn this machine. I will share my experiences as well.:cool:
 

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introduction

The most important thing to consider when deciding to buy a car is how much you're going to use it. Obviously, if it's just going to sit outside your dorm or apartment for four years, it's not worth it. And if you find yourself driving alongside university buses all the time, car ownership may still not be a great idea.

Where is your school? Are you in the middle of nowhere, or are you in a city with public transportation?
How comprehensive are campus shuttles?
How many people on campus have cars? If the number is relatively small, you can probably get by with your student ID and walking shoes.

-------------------------------------------------
2013 MERCEDES aBENZ SL-CLASS
 

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2004 volvo c70 2.4l timing belt

i have a 2004 volvo c70 2.4l that a shop did a timing belt and seals on and apparently after they installed it the engine wouldnt turn over. my question is if they had over torqued the valve cover would it cause the camshafts to not turn or am i just looking at an incorrect installation of the camshafts that caused bent valves and a lock up? any information would be much appreciated.
 

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2004 volvo c70 2.4l

I have a 2004 volvo c70 2.4l that came into the shop that the customer says she had another shop replace the timing belt and seals on. After they installed it the told her the engine was locked up and couldnt figure out why. my question is if it is possible that they over tightened the valve cover assembly which would cause the camshafts to lock up or am i just looking at a bad installation of the camshafts and cover? any help would be much appreciated.
 

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Hi Jon,

I own a 2003 V40 wagon, excellent condition, always properly maintained, just turned 100,000 miles. I am a believer in 3000 mile oil changes regardless of what the manual says.

The manual also says that it is not necessary, or possible, to service the Japanese made transmission. Logic tells me that after 100,000 miles that oil needs to be renewed, even if it is synthetic. Debris in the valve body, check ball wear, etc. are a concern.

So I went to my local Volvo specialist, and he said don't touch it if the transmission is functioning properly, which it is. Another Volvo specialist said it should be completely suctioned out and all new oil put in. My regular general repair facility said just drain and change 3 to 4 quarts for 3 consecutive engine oil changes in a row, An independent transmission shop refused to touch it stating that those transmissions are prone to break if you look cross-eyed at them, and that is why the first Volvo specialist would not touch it. Another transmission shop says they will do a complete fluid change no problem. The after market Haynes repair manual says drain what you can and refill.

Can you tell me, with actual Volvo design and repair facts, not just an opinion, what should be done here and why?

Thank you,
Richard
 

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Hi I have a question I can't seem to find an answer for. I have a p0302 misfire cyl2 code and p0036 heated O2 sensor codes. I replaced the cyl2 coil and plugs. Aside from the O2 code. I still have a misfire. Is it possible the bad O2 sensor is causing the misfire or should I look for a short? I could not find a short in the wiring for cyl 2 in the harness until it hits the plastic wire holder on the trans. Where does the orange wire with the black strip start from the ECM or is there a DIS box somewhere? I assume it's a simple fix because everything else is ok. Can you help. I'm poor and need to fix this for Pa Inspection. I was a mechanic some years ago but went back to the machine shop.
 

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Volvo owner

I am not getting fuel into my engine it is a 1987 DL 240 Wagon I have replaced the fuel injectors, main computer, checked injector wiring connectors with noid light, every injector is getting signal to fire,but still no fuel,what do I check next?
Thanks for any Help
 

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the driver seat in recline position and unable to upright/adjust because motor runs but does not engage upper part of seat.
 

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lower control arm replacement question - '01 S60

Hello, Jon -
I'm in the middle of replacing LCA's and ball joints on my S60. Driver's side cam off without a hitch. Then transitioned to the passenger side. Jacked up that side, pulled wheel, caliper, ABS, and tie rod nut. When I pulled the tie rod down and free, the hub started turning either hard left or hard right. When I replaced the driver side - it just hung wherever I positioned it. I feel that there is a lot of pressure coming thru the strut or ?. So I put it all back together and set it down. I would like to go back in and complete it tomorrow - before snow really flies here in Colorado. I have a few observations that I would like to state and see if you would be willing to offer guidance:

1. It seems lots of pressure being exerted by sway bar on end link and on thru the strut - causing the strut to want to push out and thus turning the hub. If I raise both tires, would that go away and thus the strut will not be displaced?

2. I thought perhaps the coil spring may be pushing down too hard causing the displacement. I used a spring compressor - no change.

Would like to finish the job soon. Have you ever heard of this happening, and does #1 above seem to be the right way to go. I surely appreciate any advice you could provide. Thanks!
 

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Exhaust question

Jon, hi and thank you for asking for questions!
I have a 2007 S80 needing new downpipes and the heat shield bolted back as the exhaust part is rusting - so I'm told by the dealer. My question is. Can I do this myself? What tools would be needed? And...do I have any choices to improve performance with the new pipes? If so, what's best for performance?
I'm moderately competent with mechanical ....meaning I can follow directions!

Thank you again!
 

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Hi Jon,
I have a 2005 S60 2.5T.
Like many I have been dealing with the "reduce engine perf" code coming from the ETM for the last 2 years.
Due to financial restraints I had my mechanic install a new ETM from Volvo . Now everytime I hit a bump or pothole on the right side I get the same message again.
I brought the car in the other day and today my mechanic says he's getting the same "reduced engine perf." message but it's giving him a code that the it's from the gas pedal.
Not sure which code, but as soon as I get it I will put it in here.
I am 44 and have had Volvos sinc ete age of 16. love these cars, but the financial aspect is starting ot kill me...do you know if Volvo Canada has extended the warranty on these as well? I am hearing it was extended to 10yrs or 200miles. In Canada we work with kilometers, and I am at 173 000km. so I assume I am still covered but not sure.


I am very frustrated needless to say, yet I feel that it's probably a simple fix.


Anything you can add to help would be very appreciated.
 

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Hey everybody!
My name is Jon and I'm a certified Volvo tech in Pittsburgh Pa.
If anyone has a question about their Volvo, please ask!

Jon
John i need your help. I replaced the gauge cluster on a 2014 Volvo because the low air buzzer doesn't function. The new cluster doesn't auto learn & has absolutely no functions. What do i need to do to get it working.
 

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Hey everybody!
My name is Jon and I'm a certified Volvo tech in Pittsburgh Pa.
If anyone has a question about their Volvo, please ask!

Jon
Hi Jon, I've got a situation as follows with my 2006 S60 2.5T. I'm baffled by the problem and wondered if you had any thoughts on it.

While driving, my 2006 S60 2.5 T repeatedly acts like it is going to die, and it has actually died on one occasion while gently accelerating from a stop light. The check engine light has come on three times now. When it came on the the first time I took the car to a general mechanic (NOT a Volvo service department or a private mechanic who specializes in Volvo mechanical repair). The mechanic hooked the car up to his computer and received numerous "low voltage" and "grounding" error codes for a variety of systems, including tail lights and fuel system.

The mechanic cleared the codes and said to bring the car back if the check engine light came back on. The car continued to periodically acts as if it was going to die and for some strange reason it usually occurs while accelerating away from stop signs and stop lights. The check engine light came back on several days after it was initially checked out by the general mechanic. Unfortunately, the check engine light went out on its own within one day of coming back on and before I could get the car back to the mechanic. The check engine came back on today under normal driving conditions. It was acting like it was going to die again as I accelerated gently away from several stop lights. The check engine came back on today when the car was not acting up.

I'm wondering if anyone has thoughts on what could be causing this problem. I also suspect that the non-Volvo diagnostic database that was used by the mechanic may different and reflect non specific codes that are different than the Volvo diagnostic computer database would show? Any thoughts and input from experts would be greatly appreciated. As a side note, just in case its relevant, the vehicle has nearly 198,000 miles on it but it not driven hard and has been meticulously maintained.

Thank you in advance for any and all help that anyone can provide.

Chris
 
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