[dmg4]

I need to replace the plastic surround for the auto-trans gearshift on a 1992 240. What's the trick to getting the shift knob with overdrive button removed and replaced without damage? Alternatively, is it possible to remove the shift lever from the base as a route towards replacing the shattered plastic surround?

And why did Volvo build the rest of the car to deflect artillery rounds, but used interior plastic that cracks from slamming the door on a cold day?

 

[Doppleganger]

What's the trick to getting the shift knob with overdrive button removed and replaced without damage? Alternatively, is it possible to remove the shift lever from the base as a route towards replacing the shattered plastic surround?

The top knob you push down on will come off but is VERY tight. Its splined inside. Most pull the entire knob until the button comes off, the spring flies out, etc. Only other "neat" option involves pulling the entire shifter bucket out and knocking out the cotter pins that hold everything together at teh other end. Neither is easy. Yes, its a stupid design and the #1 reason I use the 93 shifters in all my restos ('nuther topic altogether).

And why did Volvo build the rest of the car to deflect artillery rounds, but used interior plastic that cracks from slamming the door on a cold day?

When you find out, let me know too. My favorite is the love affair with plastic trim clips.

 

[dmg4]

Got it! In the event anyone else needs to do this, here's how I did it:

1. Grab the overdrive button on the side of the shift knob with a pair of needle-nose pliers and gently work the switch out of the side of the knob.

2. There are 2 wires attached to the switch with spade connectors. If one has plastic insulator, cut it away, but leave the spade. Disconnect the wires from the switch and push the wires back into the knob. You'll need to feed these wires back through the knob in step 4, and they won't fit if the plastic cover is still on the spade connectors.

3. Grab the shift knob and place one hand over the top, and begin pulling upward hard and working it alternately clockwise and counterclockwise very sightly. You'll feel it begin to give way. Get ready. It lets go suddenly.

4. Continue to pull straight up and keep your palm over the top of the knob. There's a stout spring under the release button and it will leave town unless you hold it down as the knob comes free.

5. Once the knob comes free, you can feed the wires through the channel at the front of the knob.

6. Replacement is the reverse. You can use heat-shrink tubing on the spade connections in place of the plastic covers.

 

[nodnostrebor]

Excellent!

The above message is the best advice I've read. However, it is not necessary to cut off the plastic on the connector. There is a rectangular hole through which it fits. It's tight, and impossible to re-thread without needle-nose pliers, but it does fit through the hole provided. The one not-plastic-covered must be pulled through first on disassembly, and second on re-assembly.

In the end, what I did was cut the (Yellow) by-pass lever meant to press the solenoid to release the lock. I easily cut the (yellow) plastic lever with some wire cutters. This allowed me to place a bottle cap in to shim the end of the solenoid so that I defeated the locking mechanism permanently.

Getting stuck in a snowstorm, unable to get my car out of park, is more trouble than I need.