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Hey guys! If any of you are using/have used SDS EFI (EM4-4F) on a B20, I'd love to see your settings!

I have a 73 Volvo 144, with a "Phil Singher special" with 93mm pistons, the usual head work and an aftermarket cam that I think I remember had a bit more duration than a D grind. I will be using the stock injectors which I think are roughly 36lb

BLUF: My car is at a performance shop, and has been there way too long. I'm looking for settings I can provide as a good starting point to speed up the process because the mechanic, who claims he has done this exact system before on a newer car, seems to be struggling for one reason or another.

First he was concerned with the wiring harness and wanted to replace a couple of connectors and resolder a few things. That's understandable. The system came to me used. Then he had some difficulty with the hall sensor (just didn't understand that nothing else would work if he didn't align it FIRST.. he was looking for injector pulses and spark before he gave the computer a way to tell the engine was turning) He spent a good bit of time today trying to get the engine to idle right before he pulled the injectors and saw that all 4 of them were squirting more like squirt guns than injectors. He is taking them first thing tomorrow to a friend who has an injector bench. I don't think he is an idiot, but I am becoming impatient. This was supposed to be a 2 day project and today was the 5th day.
 

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I have pretty much the same setup, but with the dual SU carbs with the jets that came with the 2L engine. I polished the ports, balanced it and it starts reliably and has an incredible amount of power. The balancing really helped If I take it up tot the redline it sounds fine.
I added the overdrive and put lower gears in the rear axle, before the gear change it went fine on the highway but would go so incredibly fast it was a bit dangerous.

I really don't understand what you'd gain with EFI. If all else fails , put a set of carbs on and avoid all the complicated stuff. That in my opinion was where Volvo really lost the edge. The older stuff was reliable and could be fixed and maintained easily, the newer stuff is horribly overcomplicated. the 240's were good and used EFI and they were very reliable but wow I wouldn't touch one of the newer cars with a 10 foot pole.
I did pick up an 87 740 with under 100 K and I am enjoying that as a daily driver , but it is pretty much the same drivetrain as the 240's.

I really like the way they used to NOT re-tool and make everything completely different each year. It sure saved me a lot of money and we had many volvos in the family. as they wore out parts got traded around.

ok I am a bit off topic and I don't have your answer. I think perhaps you might need to check a bit deeper and add more info to what has been checked and what has not for other readers to help you. are you getting a spark? will it fire at all ?

One thing I did use was a distributor from a 74 with electronic ignition, that saved it needing a lot of tuneups. no more playing with points and adjusting the timing.



Phil
 

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I'll support EFI over carbs. When all is working well, it's a much better solution. I give Volvo credit for the B20E engine with simple Bosch fuel injection - bold move that worked well.

Re-designing it to deliver considerably more power with modern electronics is relatively simple, once you get your head around things. The first time my buddy saw a 3D image of a fuel/ignition map he said it looked like a picture of a molded carpet set!

SDSEFI Simple Digital System EM-5 is actually that - Simple Digital Systems. The company looks like it has substantial resources available to sort this out. Contact them EM-5 Specifications to confirm what system you've got AND FIX IT YOURSELF!

You don't want to rely on someone else to know your custom install. You want to be able to know this system inside-out, just in case you're stuck on the side of the road or are tuning at the track. Can you download your own music? Update your own computer? Install and configure software? You'll need a couple of days studying heavily (like it's a final exam) to get your head around the system, what it needs to do and how it does it. It will all make perfect sense and then you are set.

Ever notice those kids with laptops connected to their VTEC Civics? Many of them are not just playing video games.

Once you've got it running 'decently', find a shop with a chassis dyno and book an hour to try different settings on a few pulls. That's the only real way to measure the effect of your changes.
 
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